A dress cut below the bust has the seam right where the bust ends, and lets the rest of the fabric fall freely downwards. The model is called an empire line, and it is one of the few cuts that does three things at once: moves the waist up, lengthens the legs and lays the fabric loosely over the stomach instead of tight.
In this guide, we'll go over what the cut actually does to the silhouette, which body shapes it suits, how to find the right fit around the bust, which fabrics give the right drape, which lengths work for which occasions – and when you'd rather choose something else.
Content
- What does the cut under the bust mean?
- That's why the empire line flatters so many people
- How to find the right fit
- Material that gives the right fit
- Lengths and occasions
- How to style the dress
- Quick guide by occasion
- Our favorites right now
- Frequently asked questions
- Summary
What does the cut under the bust mean?
The seam, elastic, or tie sits directly under the bust instead of at the natural waist. The top is short and tight, and the skirt starts high and falls straight or flares out. This is called an empire line or empire waist.
The difference from a regular dress is where the eye reads the waist. On a dress with a natural waist seam, the narrowest point is a few centimeters above the navel. On an empire dress, it is moved up eight to twelve centimeters – and everything below is perceived as leg.
The cut is available in the entire range, from airy maxi dresses with empire waist to shorter party models. It is also the standard cut for maternity dresses, precisely because the fabric falls freely over the stomach – Femina has collected several examples in its Femina-guide.
That's why the empire line flatters so many people
Three effects work together. The raised waist makes the legs look longer, which is the single biggest reason why short people often look taller in the model. The loose fit below the seam means the fabric never touches the stomach. And the short top lifts the bust support higher, giving a straighter silhouette.
The cut is therefore particularly suitable if you want to hide your stomach, if you have shorter legs in relation to your upper body, or if you are pregnant or have just been pregnant. If you have a pear-shaped body, the wide skirt balances the hips. We go through more cuts per body shape in the guide about which dress suits your body shape, and specifically about the stomach in dress that hides the belly.
Where the model is more difficult: if you have a large bust, a tight empire seam can cut in and push the bust forward more than you want. The solution is a model with a v-neck and a little more fabric in the top – more about that in dress for big bust.
How to find the right fit
The only place the fit needs to be right is around the bust. If the seam is too loose, the dress will hang like a sack and the whole point is lost. If it is too tight, it will create a crease under the bust that will show through the fabric.
Three things to look for before you order:
- Adjustability. A model with a tie, elastic or wrap-around waist can be fine-tuned, and is significantly more forgiving in terms of size selection than one with a fixed seam.
- Shoulder straps and neckline. Adjustable straps or a v-neckline allow you to move the bust support down a few centimeters, which is important if you are taller in the upper body.
- Where the seam actually lands. It should be directly under the bust, not a bit down towards the ribs – then the waist will be shorter and the effect will not be achieved.
A wrap dress with adjustable waist is the easiest way into the cut precisely because you decide where the waist ends up. We have shown you how to tie it correctly step by step in how to tie a wrap dress.
Material that gives the right fit
The empire line rises and falls with the fabric. Since the skirt is to fall freely from a high point, the material needs to be soft and heavy at the same time – too stiff fabric stands out like a bell, too thin fabric sticks.
The best materials to use are viscose, crêpe, double-layered chiffon, tencel and soft jersey with a little weight. The ones that rarely work are stiff cotton poplin, thick canvas and thin smooth polyester that cling to tights. We have compared the materials against each other in the guide on best material.
Draping is a sign that the designer thought about the case. A maxi dress with draped silhouette gives the fabric a direction instead of just hanging.
Lengths and occasions
Maxi is the most classic empire length and the most festive – the fabric has time to drape properly and the leg lengthening is most evident. Midi is the most useful for everyday wear and work, especially with boots. Mini works but loses some of the effect, as there is not enough fabric below the seam.
For work, a midi in a dark tone works very well – we have collected more options in dress for work. For parties and weddings, a maxi in a fabric with luster is the safest choice; see dress for wedding.
Now in August, it's the transition period that matters: an empire dress in viscose works just as well with sandals as with boots and a knitted cardigan over it, making it one of the few garments you can wear right through the first month of autumn.
How to style the dress
Keep the top clean. Since the whole point of the cut is the high waistline, nothing should break it – skip wide belts and long necklaces that draw the eye down. A shorter necklace or earrings will do the job better.
Shoes determine how long your silhouette will be. Heels enhance leg length; flats in a tone close to your skin tone do almost the same thing. Boots under a midi this fall give a more modern, less romantic feel.
Layering works great as long as the outer garment ends either above or well below the empire seam. A short blazer or open cardigan is fine; a jacket that ends halfway above the seam is wrong.More options in what to wear over a sleeveless dress.
Quick guide by occasion
| Opportunity | Model to choose | Think about |
|---|---|---|
| Everyday life and work | Midi in viscose, dark tone | Boots or loafers, short jacket over |
| Wedding and party | Maxi in crêpe or chiffon | Fabric with luster, heel, short jewelry |
| Pregnant | Maxi or midi with ties | Adjustable waist grows with your belly |
| Big bust | V-neck, adjustable straps | Avoid tight elastic directly under the bust |
| Short body length | Maxi without pattern breaks | Solid color gives a longer silhouette |
| Late summer and early autumn | Midi in viscose | Sandals now, boots in three weeks |
Our favorites right now
Three high-waisted dresses that are easy to wear:
- Green Maxi Dress with V-Neck and Empire Waist – light and airy, with the seam exactly where it should be.
- Women's Wrap Dress with Adjustable Midi Design – you decide where your waist goes.
- Maxi Dress with Draped Silhouette – the draping gives the fabric direction and completely hides the stomach.
Free shipping within Sweden on all orders.
Frequently asked questions
What is a dress that is cut below the bust called?
Empire dress, or dress with an empire waist. The name comes from the fashion during the French Empire, when the waist was worn high.
What body shape suits a dress cut below the bust?
It suits most people, but is best if you want to hide your stomach, have shorter legs in relation to your upper body, are pear-shaped or pregnant.
Does an empire dress hide the belly?
Yes. Because the fabric is loose from the chest and falls freely, it never touches the stomach. That's why the cut is standard on maternity dresses.
Is the empire line suitable if you have a large bust?
Yes, but choose a model with a v-neck and adjustable straps. A tight elastic band right under a large bust can cut in and make the bust protrude.
Which material is best?
Viscose, crêpe, tencel and chiffon in double layers. They fall softly without sticking. Avoid stiff cotton and thin smooth polyester.
Can you wear an empire dress for everyday wear?
Absolutely. A midi in dark viscose with boots or loafers is one of the most comfortable everyday dresses there is.
Summary
A dress cut below the bust moves the waist up, allows the fabric to fall freely over the stomach and makes the legs look longer. What determines whether it fits well is the fit around the chest and the drape of the fabric – choose soft materials like viscose or crêpe, an adjustable waist if you are unsure of the size, and keep the top free of anything that breaks the high waistline.
Ready to find yours? Explore our women's dresses.
